The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronometer is a luxury timepiece that is really growing on me. While it’s always been a good watch that has seen a lot of popularity among Omega fans, this year represents a new high point for the Aqua Terra–and people are talking about it. What’s the reason, you ask? A very sharp yet modest redesign that wraps itself around Omega’s sensational in-house 8500 caliber movement.
Let’s review the differences: The new 8500-equipped Omega Aqua Terra models–in the 41.5 or 38.5mm case sizes–are styled much like the older models, and both have angles and polishing commonalities with the legendary Speedmaster Professional chronograph. Polished and brushed surfaces converge nicely to create a watch that works well for nearly any situation. Still present is the elegant polished bezel ring, and the large, slightly curved sapphire crystal.
The biggest obvious change is to the dial; in place of the glossy or silvery rhodium dials, there is the so-called “Teck Concept”. Inspired by the wooden decks on premium quality boats, this pattern adds just the right amount of visual interest, without creating clutter or unnecessary frills. Beautifully crafted triangular hour markers and faceted hands in 18K gold with tips reminiscent of a chisel (white gold for the stainless steel models) brings yet more sublime points of interest to the new Omega Aqua Terra line. The quality of these components are absolutely top notch, and speak volumes about Omega’s rapid upwards progression as a luxury watch manufacture. Also worth mentioning, because it’s an answer to the requests of many Omegaphiles, is the improved bracelet–gone are the friction pins, and in their place are superior, stronger, and far more elegant screws; an nicely constructed triple-folding deployant with two opposing button releases keeps the fit comfortable and secure, as well as low profile.
The back of the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 8500 elicits a similar feeling of superb quality, even if one had no idea as to its specifications. A screw-down sapphire exhibition back shows off the Omega 8500 caliber movement mentioned above, which prior to this watch, was only available from Omega in the De Ville Hour Vision models. While its true that the new Omega 8500 caliber has only been out for a couple years, in that short time it has earned a great deal of praise from industry insiders, watchmakers and owners alike.
Among the Omega 8500’s many notable features are an independently adjustable hour hand (excellent if you travel often, and cross time zones), a system of two serially operating spring barrels (this allows for a strong 60-hour power reserve), a large freely-sprung balance wheel with an exclusive system of adjustment weights, and a highly stable balance bridge. Combine those last two features with Omega’s friction-reducing Co-Axial escapement, and you have a mechanical movement capable of some serious precision performance! Numerous owners of Omega watches with the 8500 have raved about timekeeping performance that is virtually quartz-like in consistency; I can’t confirm or deny this, as I have no personal experience with it, but enough testimonials exist to indicate that Omega has clearly produced a caliber that can attain the top echelon of chronometer performance, function reliably for day to day wearing, and be service-friendly when watchmaker attention is eventually required (something no mechanical movement is exempt from).
I’d add too, that the Omega 8500 movement is also very appealing to look at, with an Omega exclusive Cotes de Geneve en Arabesque decorative pattern on the bridges and central winding rotor. Particularly beautiful is the version fitted inside the 18K red gold models–these feature a balance bridge and rotor in red gold, which look amazing against the icy shimmer of the rhodiumed components.
Prices of the 8500-equipped Omega Aqua Terra models are quite modest indeed, considering what a great all-round luxury watch you are really getting: A historic brand, an exclusive manufacture movement, a versatile design, and rugged construction with very solid water resistance (150 meters). Yes, they are more expensive than the older models, but this shouldn’t be a surprise, considering that those references are equipped with excellent, but less exclusive, Omega-modified ETA movements. You also have the updated dials, and the improved bracelets that add value.
What’s very clear to me is this: Omega has Rolex’s long time best-seller, the Datejust, squarely in their sights and plan on making prospective buyers in the mid-range luxury watch price point think twice before pulling out their credit cards. As an avowed fan of Rolex, I can say which of the two I’d prefer–in this instance, it’s the Aqua Terra that wins out.
